SULAITE Motorcycle Riding Armor Jacket + Knee Pads Motocross Off-Road Enduro ATV Racing Body Protective Gear Protector Set
Brand Name: SULAITE
Feature: Elastic Prevent impact
Item Type: Jackets+kneelet
Jackets size: S/M/L/XL/XXL /XXXL
kneelet size: One Size
Item Type 1: armor jacket /motorcycle body protection
Item Type 2: armor body /motorcycle chest protector
Item Type 3: motorcycle jacket
Item Type 4: moto armor
Unit Type: piece
Package Weight: 0.8kg (1.76lb.)
Package Size: 10cm x 10cm x 10cm (3.94in x 3.94in x 3.94in
Motorcycle Protection: To Each Environment its Specificities
Today, almost everyone is well aware that it is necessary to protect yourself when riding a motorcycle, choosing appropriate equipment is essential. We distinguish different environments to ride, and choose equipment such as a motorcycle jacket must be reflected. Between a leather or textile jacket, with or without waterproof membrane and the various protections that can be found, the choice is vast, which has the advantage of being able to satisfy all bikers.
Before developing the topic, I invite you to watch this excellent video in which a group of bikers make their own spot on road safety on a motorcycle, in a fun and really relevant way:
In the city, be careful not to underestimate the risks
Some users of two wheels tend to leave their motorcycle jackets aside in urban condition. The reason is simple: the speed being very limited, one imagines that a fall is only likely to be serious. Note, however, that a fall at 50 km / h is still quite violent, and the traps are very numerous due to the street furniture and traffic density.
City dwellers will choose a motorcycle jacket perfectly equipped with safety, with protections on the elbows and shoulders, and a real backbone. I’m talking about a real dorsal because most of the time, the original one with a jacket is only a small piece of absorbent foam. It is therefore ideal to buy a homologated much more effective (between 20 and 30 euros).
Accidents in the city are generally low speed (unless you ride on a device for example), you will be especially subject to shocks and not a slip in case of a fall. Jackets equipped with high-end reinforcements resistant to abrasion and tears (Cordura 1000D for example) are not necessarily mandatory. So you can choose a trendy motorcycle jacket for example, with a classic jacket style and hides its protections. Ideally also protections should be flexible material (kind of rubber) rather than hard (dense foam) to limit the size and favored a discreet and urban look.
To make everyday use easier, use textiles instead. Textile jackets have, for example, many thoughtful and accessible pockets, as well as membranes that we are talking about in the following paragraph that make them more waterproof than leather. These small details will facilitate access to your business (underground parking ticket for example), but will help you get dry in the office in case of rain. In the case of exclusive use in the city, it is useless to choose the best in terms of thermal insulation or waterproof membrane. The journeys are usually rather short and the needs are not the same as when you drive at 90 km / h for one or two hours. On this point adapt your choice according to the time spent on your machine and do not hesitate to get advice from the seller, even if you buy online.
Road bike: protecting against bad weather and falling
Riding a motorcycle on the road (departmental roads, highways), it is to roll in many environments and at very varied speeds. Between the small mountain roads in summer and the monotony of the highway in the rain, the difference is there! Finding a versatile equipment to meet all situations is not necessarily obvious, but manufacturers offer a wide choice today, with all of them coming out of techniques that will more or less inflate prices.
Many ask the question of leather or textile to start. I would simply answer to choose what we like with regard to the look. Wearing a leather motorcycle jacket is the very image that most people have of the biker. The leather offers authentic styles, from vintage to neoclassical that can not offer a cloth jacket. Textile is much more technical and does not have this raw side that gives this unique charm. However, a quality textile motorcycle jacket is still a beautiful jacket that exudes seriousness, which can be similar in some way to an almost Germanic style. In short, all this is above all a story of taste, and this is in my opinion the first question you must ask yourself knowing that you will keep several years: “Leather or textile, visually, which I like most? ”
In terms of potential fall on the road, the rider can be confronted with slipping and shocks (a small tree to stop slipping for example). The approved protections are therefore no more rigor, including for the back. If you choose a textile jacket, choose a jacket with reinforcements in anti-tear and anti-abrasion materials on the exposed areas (elbows, shoulders), same for the trousers and gloves. Indeed, a conventional textile does not withstand a long time in case of slipping and tear, or melt under the effect of heat generated. The leather does not have this disadvantage and resists for its part extremely well to slip.
Remember also the protection against rain and cold (or even the heat of summer). Breathable membranes are one of the materials of modern motorcycle jackets. These membranes are windproof, waterproof and breathable. Their big advantage is that they keep you dry in case of rain, but also allow perspiration to evaporate through the jacket in case of heat. The best known of these (and probably the best) is the Gore-Tex, but there are others (cheaper) like the Aerotex and many are manufacturers of jackets that use their own technology. This membrane can be removable or not, and it is important not to be confused with the thermal insulation, the famous removable lining for winter. Check this point when choosing a jacket:
Textile only (I have never seen on a leather): Is there a waterproof-breathable membrane (Gore-Tex or other)
Leather or textile: is there a removable thermal liner?
Still on the climate, some leather or textile jackets offer vents that can be opened just for the summer. It is a little more interesting for men and women who want to wear their jacket all year long.
A short video of the manufacturer Dane, blowing the merits of his jackets equipped with a membrane Gore-Tex, with big karcher blows!
Whether you are going to put your wheels on the track at the weekend to have a little fun, or you are a fan of the modo on circuit, a single subject is offered to you in terms of protection is the leather. The reason is simple is that as we said above, a leather is very resistant to slipping, unlike textile. And on the track, a fall often turns into a slide because there is no object to stop you. Moreover the service teams who manage access to the circuit will certainly not let you in if you have a textile jacket, even if it is equipped with an ultra resistant kevlar insert or anti-abrasion reinforcement at the top of the top. Indeed, a track marshal will not take your word for it and will not cut your jacket to make sure that the so-called Kevlar membrane is present. Leather on the other hand, we know without hesitation what it is.
By nature, running on the track is at fairly high speeds, so in terms of motorcycle safety on the circuit, you need to provide thick leather equipment, with many protections. The classic elbows, shoulders, knees, back, even hips will have their integrated approved protections, usually provided originally with jackets and pants (except dorsal and hips, often optional). Beyond that, the manufacturers of motorcycle clothing add to their jackets various absorbent foam reinforcements, especially at the collarbone, or even rigid shells in aluminum or carbon that protrude over the shoulders and elbows, adding by the same opportunity a good touch inspired by the race.
The track biker jackets are therefore thought differently from a road jacket, with even more protection, but also stretch inserts to promote movement on the bike. On the other hand, the practical aspects are limited, and it is better not to count on tightness.
Finally, if you hesitate between a complete combination or a two-piece set, it will depend primarily on the use. I tend to recommend two-piece sets for those who also want to use their motorcycle on the road. They can put the jacket alone with jeans for their leisurely strolls. To those who only make the track, as much go on a combination of a room however, because it will help to make even more body with the machine.
Protect yourself in any terrain
All terrain is characterized primarily by obstacles that can hurt a lot in case of a fall: large stones, roots, etc. If you have a big road trail and you want to put your wheels on the roads, a touring equipment with protections and reinforcements may be suitable. It will be necessary however to add in addition to the jacket an independent backbone. The advantage is that this type of backbone incorporates ultra-resistant materials such as Kevlar, or rigid shells that protect the spine along its entire length. To make a bad fall on a stone is quickly arrived and can turn to the catastrophe. Note that this type of backbone is actually suitable for all environments, city or road. The practical side takes a shot and it’s up to you to see if you want protection at the top or something easier to wear.
If you practice the green bike more regularly, choose enduro-type equipment. Here we do not really speak about jackets or pants, but independent protectors type kneepads or elbow wraps, articulated and often rigid. For the torso, to promote the harness that will protect both the arms to the shoulders, but also the chest and back. Add to that a jacket and pants soft and light to feel your machine.
Choose your Biker Rquipment
It is better not to skimp on equipment that is the protection of the rider against climatic hazards or in case of a fall. Review of detail, from head to toe.
1. The helmet
It is not only that its wearing (threaded over the head with the chinstrap closed) and CE approval is mandatory, but because it protects the most fragile and important organ of our body.
There are three main types of helmets: full, jets and modulables.
The integral (sports, road or cross) offers the best security and the best silence, an important criterion during long days of road. But it is not very practical and sometimes sins by a too limited field of vision.
The jet (or half-jet or bowl), even with a visor, leaves the face exposed and should be used at low speed and behind a bubble.
The modular, approved as an integral for some, is appreciated, especially by the glasses wearers, for its practical side. During stops, it is not necessary to completely remove the helmet to talk, hear and enjoy a little fresh air, just raise the chinrest.
Recall that a modular helmet, whatever it is, is made to roll chinrest down and screen closed!
Advances in production techniques have nullified the recommendation to change a helmet every five years. However, it is essential to replace it in case of major shock, especially if it has been impacted with your head inside.
Remember that the part of the helmet that wears the fastest is its screen and that it affects your vision of the road, do not hesitate to maintain and change it regularly.
To protect the eyes, it is possible to use a tinted screen, by internal treatment or external film (fixation by “pinlock”), or sunglasses.
Reflective screens, called “iridium”, are prohibited out of competition.
Remember that the bright sun can give way to the twilight of tunnels and twilit, a removable screen will then be very useful, unless you bring a replacement screen to change on the side of the road.
A screen tinted in yellow intercepts a part of the brightness during the day and ensures better night vision.
When it’s cold, a hood helps keep your head warm. Indispensable when the icy air infiltrates around the skull where exactly one-third of the heat loss of the body takes place. Hence the importance of good cranial ventilation during the heat wave.
Another exposed area is the neck and neck, in the absence of the collar of the jacket and the chin strap of the helmet. In this way, water infiltrates in the rain, cold in winter, insects in summer …
Hence the need for a choker, more or less warm, hydrophobic but breathable, to protect the skin, warm the blood that rises to the brain in cold weather or cool (by wetting the neck) by strong heat.
Each type of jacket and motorcycle jacket has its strengths and flaws depending on its use. Ideally, one should have a garment for each season (summer, winter, mid-season), textile and / or leather. A choice is necessary most of the time for reasons of budget. But in any case, give priority to truly protective clothing against abrasion (in case of slipping), but also against shocks.
There is now a European standard EN 13595 which homologates the entire jacket or jacket as personal protective equipment (PPE) for biker use. Demand a certified garment !!
For the rest, here are some criteria to help you choose.
The material of the outer layer must resist abrasion. Cordura and especially leather jackets are generally the most effective, but also the most expensive. A leather is effective only if it is of good quality, that is to say of cow or pork, full flower, thick of more than one millimeter and well sewn. If you want to save as much as possible, do not forget the cost of the various burns and fractures that you will reap at the next bowl with an entry-level jacket …
The quality of the hulls, essential protections on the shoulders and elbows, is the second criterion. We now find soft or hard shells, CE approved on all jackets. Only differences in quality affect the price. Privilege the protections approved according to standard 1621-1 level 2 and require at least standard 1621-1 level 1.
The protection should be enveloping and cover widely (as much as possible) the areas of the humerus (the arm), the head of the humerus, the clavicle / head of the humerus (called the acromioclavicular) and The collarbone. On the front, it should cover at least half of the clavicle. Excellent protection can minimize damage during a shock and prevent dislocation. However, in the case of an impact of great violence, it is clear that protection is not enough but limits the damage.
Know that a simple fracture of the operated radius causes a disability of long enough duration, as well as a fracture of the elbow, which can lead to significant sequelae, such as stiffness of the elbow that may require a new operation. A simple fracture of the wrist not operated, it is 6 weeks of plaster, then a long reeducation.
A complex and open fracture of the upper limb (the bone has passed through the skin) will pose major problems of risk of infection, non-consolidation, re-operation …
It is therefore very important that the hulls do not leave their location during a fall. Make sure that the sleeve is as snug as possible around your arm, that the hull does not turn.
The hulls on the arms must protect from at least 3 finger widths above the elbow joint to the distal portion of the ulna (long inner bone when the hand is facing the sky), close to the joint wrist.
At the elbow, the hull must be enveloping and protect the bones protruding from the sides. Between the tip of the elbow and the head of the ulna (the bone protruding on the inside, hand facing the sky), there is a gutter where the ulnar nerve passes: bump into this place and you will understand .
The quality of the back protector: almost all of the original integrated backbones in the jacket, very often in simple soft foam, are ineffective. Again, require a protection approved according to EN 1621-2 level 2 preferably, at least level 1.
Read the article Why protect your back.
Solution to this gap, an independent back protector, fixed with straps and a belt, made of plastic “vertebrae” and equipped with foam for more comfort. There are also protective vests covering the entire trunk.
A lumbar belt will not protect you, but will keep your back under strain on some machines. Be careful, it causes in the long run a relaxation of the muscles, which makes the cure worse than the harm.
The removable thermal lining, which sometimes doubles as a waterproofing membrane, is essential for winter comfort. There are different qualities depending on the materials used, more or less insulating and breathable.
Waterproofness and “breathability” are paramount. They depend on the quality of the membrane that immediately doubles the outer layer, but also on the overall design of the garment. A 100% waterproof membrane is useless if the water enters through seams, zippers, collar, pockets … In the other direction, the garment must be able to evacuate perspiration to prevent the rider from “cooking in his juice “.
On these last two criteria, the leather is very often penalized. Some synthetic materials are more economical, waterproof, breathable, light, dry faster
For the summer, “mesh” type textiles are very comfortable: the mesh allows air to pass through, resulting in efficient ventilation thanks to the relative wind. Obviously, it becomes much less effective as soon as the bike stops …
In the absence of a special heatwave, the biker can be content with a mid-season garment with vents closable on the arms and chest.
For winter, a fleece jacket or a technical material that facilitates heat retention will offset the weakness of a mid-season garment.
To understand the differences between jacket and jacket, read these two articles on MotoServices, the first dedicated to jackets and the second dedicated to motorcycle jackets.
3. The gloves
During a fall, the hands are often in the front line (fractures and / or dislocations of the hand and / or wrist). And the ends suffer the first of the cold. For these two reasons, the gloves are essential to the biker, you must never ride without wearing it.
The gloves must meet difficult specifications: protect from cold and rain, while keeping enough flexibility for a good grip of the controls, or even stiffness to protect in case of a fall.
Areas of risk: the protruding parts of the joints on the dorsal side of the hand, the palm of the hand external face, the edge of the hand facing the metacarpus of the 5th finger (this is the bone before the articulation of the small finger), little finger and thumb.
Some gloves are equipped with an anti-rollover system of the 5th finger (auricular) by a connection with the 4th finger (ring).
The glove’s cuff should go back at least 4 finger widths above the wrist joint.
It must be well closed and tight on the wrist so as not to slip with your hand in case of slipping.
With the sleeve of the jacket passed over the cuff, when it rains, the water does not shed inside the glove.
But if the driving position of your motorcycle is that the wrists are above the elbows, it is necessary that the glove covers the jacket. Thus, when it rains, the water is shed towards the jacket, and not inside the glove.
Gloves are available for winter, summer and mid-season, hot or cold, rainy or dry.
Avoid wearing winter gloves for a summer sweat in the South, as sweat may be a problem. Ventilated gloves are a guarantee of comfort, but some are very thin and without reinforcements.
The thicker winter gloves are usually made of leather (sometimes with textile inserts for flexibility) and have multiple membranes to ensure heat retention, tightness and breathability.
Summer gloves are obviously thinner and often ventilated. Some still have an impervious insert.
Specialized gloves are necessarily less versatile. The off-road gloves are very flexible. Those reserved for track driving are more rigid to protect against high-speed shocks; some even connect the last two outer fingers to avoid fractures of the little finger.
If you are having trouble driving your motorcycle or scooter, check your gloves! One often underestimates the importance of these in the sense of orders. Thick gloves protect, but hinder to drive. A water-repellent material is sometimes slippery and “ripped” on the levers. Always make sure your gloves give you good grip and sensitivity on the handlebar controls.
The leather has proved its superiority for resistance, but again, solid seams and protections (carbon shells on the knuckles and Kevlar reinforcements on the palm) are essential.
The ideal solution to guard against cold does not exist. It does not matter whether the outer layer is made of textile or leather, it is the thickness of the wadding that counts. But care must be taken to maintain the qualities of grip and sensitivity of the controls. Any winter glove will be a compromise between these two imperatives.
Do not hesitate to take a size over your usual gloves: the air is the best cold insulation and the amplitude will allow to put on silk under-gloves, one of the best solutions against the nail.
Choose gloves with a cuff and wrist tightening to prevent cold air infiltration.
Try them with your jacket to check that the set fits well: when it rains, the water drips down the sleeve and seeps into the gloves, so you have to slip the cuff inside. the armhole of the jacket. In cold weather, it is better to spend it above.
To learn more, read the articles
Choose your motorcycle gloves
Why protect your joints
4. The pants
Security assumes that the entire body surface is covered. It makes sense to avoid shorts and bermudas, even by 40 degrees in the shade.
The leather pants are the best solution for both safety and the cold, especially with kneepads, integrated or worn under the pants. If the narrowness of the leg does not allow to wear rigid shells, insulated kneepads, worn under the leather, will keep you cold.
There are cordura pants that offer almost the same resistance as leather, with the advantage of being waterproof and breathable. Otherwise, we can be satisfied with Kevlar reinforced jeans pants. Textile trousers are often equipped with a removable thermal lining, very useful for the winter.
On leather pants, wearing long pants Damart style preserve the cold.
The leather is unbearable in summer, it will use a cordura pants with ventilation, if possible flexible depending on the heat. Some leather pants are made of leather on the outer faces (those that may rub on the bitumen in case of a fall) and textile more or less ventilated on the internal faces, an interesting solution, but the strength of the seams will be an element determinant.
Ladies, never wear nylon on the skin of your legs! In case of slipping on bitumen, this material melts very quickly and is embedded in the skin. Look lizard guaranteed until the end of your life! I guarantee you will never wear a skirt again …
Know that in the human body, nothing protects the pool. The risk of fracture exists in case of shock. And, in case of fracture of the pelvis, the risk of internal bleeding is important.
Everything can be dislocated or fractured or abraded, but the damage can also be minimized with the wearing of protective shells.
On the “good” pants, there are shells (prefer those called “memory”), placed next to the heads of the femurs.
A good pair of trousers absorbs some of the shocks and protects against abrasion, but it is here that the hulls are of great importance.
The hull at the knee should go up at least 4 finger widths above the knee to protect the end of the femur (the femoral condyles). At the other end, it must go down to two-thirds of the leg. The end of this protection must cover the upper part of the boot when the pants cover the boot.
The hull should be enveloping, especially at the knee on the sides because a fracture of the neck of the fibula (bone on the outside of the tibia, the neck of the fibula is therefore just below the knee, outside) can cause paralysis of one of the two divisions of the sciatic nerve (the external popliteal sciatic nerve) and prevent the foot from being raised.
Why protect your joints
5. The shoes
Good motorcycle boots should protect the lower leg, ankles, bones of the foot, the calcaneus (heel) on which the Achilles tendon fits.
Leather boots offer the best protection because they hold and protect the ankle.
It is advisable to choose waterproof and breathable, lined with a membrane type Gore-Tex or Sheltex.
Also gauge the quality of the sole of the boot and its thickness.
The feet play a minor role compared to the hands in the handling of a motorcycle. Boots can be stiffer than gloves and it is easier to produce hot and waterproof equipment.
We can also opt for special shoes, more comfortable if you keep them on the feet all day long.
Boots or shoes, they must include a reinforcement at the location of the selector, non-slip soles, protections at the malleolus and heel, or even the ankle. Many bikers underestimate the arduousness of foot injuries, yet it is the part of the body that touches first (so often the strongest) in an accident.
Nobody likes to walk on crutches for weeks or even months. And I’m not talking about the risk of having to rely on a stick for the rest of his life …
For the feet too, manufacturers offer special models for hot weather, not to be neglected.
In the absence of special motorcycle products, choose boots or strong hiking shoes, with a waterproof membrane.
Make sure that the closure system guarantees watertightness: a simple zipper lets the water pass through, it must be covered with a tongue or lined with a waterproof membrane.
For comfort issues, and to wear them in winter with thicker socks, choose his boots one size up. Especially in a number of people, the feet tend to swell during the day.
In the case of urban use, it is useful to have anti-slip soles (which can also be used for motorway tolls, often very slippery).
The shape of the foot, the kick, the ankle differs according to the people. It is imperative to try before buying. If you have a little “special” foot, try to find boots with adjustable closure by a system of loops, velcro, etc.
Some “race” type boots fit close to the foot, but are hard to put on (with internal booties and multiple closure settings).
It’s up to you to choose the best closure system according to the frequency of use and the use you make of it, and not according to the look or the price.
The anterior and posterior parts of boots at the level of the leg should be rigid and sufficiently enveloping.
It must be ensured of the presence of lateral reinforcements limiting or preventing the turning of the foot inwards or outwards.
Indispensable: a sufficiently wide reinforcement of the ankles at the level of the internal and external malleolus (salient bones corresponding to the end of the tibia and fibula, the 2 bones of the leg).
Preferable: a stiff reinforcement of the heel, a reinforcement at the level of the kick.
Of course, a proper boot is an expensive boot. But as much as the damage is the least severe possible: a simple fracture of the tibia is better than a complex and open fracture.
The first requires short-term hospitalization and leaves little after-effects.
In the other case, this can lead to a long and painful hospitalization with multiple anesthesia, a risk of major infection and can lead to amputation.
6. The rain clothes
With the cold, the rain is the big enemy of the biker.
Leather is the best protection in case of a fall, it is not waterproof. Even textile garments with waterproofing membranes end up letting the water through after hours of continuous rain, especially in joints where the folds allow water to accumulate.
The panacea is the combination of integral rain or two parts, waterproof but not breathable, to go over the protective clothing. Think during the purchase that you will sometimes have to put it on very quickly and without always benefiting from a shelter.
Gloves and shoes are not eternally waterproof either. In case of heavy rain, it is advisable to be equipped with jumpers and overboots, by privileging their solidity.
Waterproofing products for leather or textiles will allow you to pass through a brief downpour, not forgetting to renew the treatment regularly.
* * *
7. The heated clothes
For the cautious bikers, there are heated clothes, mainly for the ends (hands and feet) that cool first. The heated gloves are wonderful, but the heating soles sometimes leave something to be desired ergonomics. Some prefer a heating jacket that heats the torso and therefore blood in the heart, irrigating the entire body. In all cases, favor models with a thermostat.
This equipment requires the presence of a 12-volt socket, an accessory that is only available on road and touring motorcycles, but can be fitted to other motorcycles.